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01/04/08 |
      
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OverviewThis is a remarkable story about fate and destiny. I’d dreamed about going to Tahiti since I was a teenager and saw a special on the Discovery Channel about feeding sharks on the island of Bora Bora. It was amazing that perfectly healthy human beings would actually stand in open waters with wild sharks and feed them big hunks of meat by hand! I quickly added it to my mental list of “things that I must do in this lifetime”. (Select the hyperlinks below to go directly to the journal entry for that day)
The Story The Story....When we received the new Olivia brochure in the mail, my heart leaped with joy! There was a cruise to Tahiti in March of 2002! Although, given all our other travel plans and priorities, it really didn’t seem like a feasible timeframe. But somewhere in the back of my mind, I refused to give up hope. After 9/11 happened, the original cruise line filed for bankruptcy. I was certain the trip would be cancelled, but much to my delighted surprise, we received an updated brochure with details of an even better ship – The Radisson Seven Seas Paul Gauguin. The photos and details about this small luxury ship were unbelievable and the “rollover” price was an absolute steal… somehow we just had to find a way to go on this vacation, I quietly said to myself. Well, the days are ticking down to this dream becoming a reality! An incredible window of opportunity opened before us – Mary decided to accept a job offer at a new company and I made up my mind that I was going to take her to Tahiti to celebrate!! As you can imagine – it was pretty easy to talk Mary into going to one of the most coveted set of islands in the world – warm, crystal clear waters….snorkeling till her heart was content – it would be the ultimate cleansing and transition from her old job to her new and exciting career opportunity!
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FAST FACTS |
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Currency: |
French Francs |
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Exchange Rate: |
1 US dollar = 5.25 Francs |
After a full day/night of airplane rides
(Yippee!), we arrived at the Papeete International Airport at 4:30am on the
island of Tahiti – the fabled “island of love” to be greeted by Tahitian
Dancers with leis and musicians who were pleased to be providing the dance
rhythm. Their smiles were infectious, even after all the hours of flight. It
was clear that we were worlds away from the US from that moment on. After a
warm welcome and grins plastered from ear to ear, we grabbed our luggage and
proceeded to find the other Olivia gals that were also on our flight to
continue on a short jaunt via shuttle to the hotel.
We quickly absorbed the lusciousness of humidity and welcomed the fresh juice served at the Le Meridien hotel reception desk as we waited our turn to check in. The hotel is absolutely striking - very elegant with waterfalls and fresh tropical flowers adorning every facet of the thatched facade. After a few short moments, we ventured into our charming room with a fabulous balcony. The night sky had started giving way to the sun’s eager tugs - providing us with a tantalizing glimpse of our view - overlooking the resort, water and beach area. With the happy faces of children on Christmas morning, we both dropped our bags and headed out the door to see our new surroundings and our first Tahitian sunrise.
It was just amazing… the plants, birds, garden and pool areas – all striking with lush vegetation and groves of coconut and banana trees lining the footpaths. We reached the waters edge just as the sky took on more lively colors of daybreak. The water was silky and warm, like a perfectly drawn bath – ahh, this is heaven. There were billowy clouds scattered across the sky, picking up hues of pink, deep purples and magnificent reds. Not too far in the distance, we could see another island with beautiful jagged mountainous peaks jutting proudly into the sky – it must be Moorea. We’d be there for a whole week after the cruise - in one of those incredible over the water bungalows. We were already giddy with sleep deprivation and enthusiasm for adventure and we’d only been in Tahiti for a couple of hours! This was sure to be an incredible experience.
After a nice walk along the beach taking photos and watching the sunrise, we ventured back into the resort to enjoy breakfast. We met a few of the gals that we’d talked with on the shuttle ride here. Sue, Ellen, Mindy and Lynette were all traveling together from Washington D.C. – we shared a wonderful breakfast, then lively conversation and before we knew it the restaurant was preparing to serve lunch! We milled around the restaurant for awhile longer, catching up with Jill and Kathleen of Olivia before staking our claim to a couple of lounge chairs by the pool for some sun and sleep. What a serene day – we enjoyed a peaceful and relaxing couple of hours before finally going back to our room and unpacking.
We decided to do a little exploring of our own on foot and got directions to the nearest ATM machine and supermarket. It was a blistering hot day and we were feeling the affects of lack of liquids. We stopped at the ATM, withdrew some French Francs and proceeded to walk another block or so to the supermarket. The island looks much like Hawaii with palm trees and lush vegetation growing wildly everywhere. The paved roads are quite narrow and most cars are very small economy or subcompact vehicles. Everything is fairly expensive here since it has to be shipped in from afar. We’ve found that supermarkets offer the best prices and people watching opportunities. We stocked up on water supplies and a few scrumptious looking pastries that Mary could not resist. We also learned about the “Siesta Plan” – most businesses and restaurants close between 2-5pm every day. And most restaurants actually do not even open until 7:30-8pm. If you’re an early diner, you don’t want to learn this the hard way! Since we ate a long breakfast, we’d skipped lunch and were now starving and there didn’t seem to be a restaurant open on the entire island. Luckily we’d packed a bunch of turkey jerky and power bars for trip snacks and gladly enjoyed them!
Arriving a couple of days before the cruise departure definitely has its advantages. Most of the gals wouldn’t be arriving until later tomorrow. A few trickled in here and there, but we mostly had a small group and the entire resort to ourselves with the bonus of lots of quality time with Jill and Kathleen. We’d met them both on previous Olivia trips but hadn’t really had this kind of an opportunity to really get to know them. After our adventure into town, we showered and headed to the restaurant to join Kathleen and Jill for a late dinner.
March 22, 2002 - DAY 2 - Papeete, Tahiti:
We awoke to an overcast day which brought a little relief to intense island heat - it was a perfect day for exploration. We met Kathleen and Jill for breakfast in the restaurant and were delighted by the array of foods presented on the buffet. There was some traditional American foods such and scrambled eggs, French toast, bacon and sausages, etc, and of course a heavenly assortment of fresh fruits including some new ones that we hadn’t tried yet. We experienced passion fruit, star fruit, and some others that we didn’t recognize. There was also an area with hot steamed rice, Miso soup and fresh sushi – all a wonderful treat and nourishing breakfast.
We met Kathleen, Sue & Ellen in the hotel lobby around 9am to catch the shuttle that would take us on a city tour and to the market we’d been hearing many wonderful things about. The shops were cute and included many local products such as paper goods made from coconut husks, baskets made from local wood and palm fronds and lots of jewelry shops selling black pearls. After touring the shops on foot, we arrived at a gigantic open-roofed, 2-story warehouse looking building that was alive with people, colors, products, produce and sweet scents to overwhelm you with powerful island ambiance. The Papeete Market was just as incredible as we’d heard it was. Papeete is the most industrial city of the Society Islands with all the goods being exported and imported world wide from within its port. Everything you could imagine that is created on the islands seems to be available at the Papeete Market.
We stocked up on fresh vanilla products from local vanilla bean farms, purchased some souvenirs and enjoyed sampling more unknown fruits. Mary learned the art of eating a rambutan in the most comedic of ways! With her typically curious nature, we stopped by this stand and Mary asked the gentleman what this unusual spiky little red thing about the size of a kiwi was? He looked at her with a smile and picked one up, twisted in half, handed it to her and said “eat!” Keep in mind that we really weren’t even sure what “food group” this item was from – it looked like it could be some type of fish, or fruit or who knows what!
Mary, being a rather trusting person, popped the unknown item in her mouth and chewed for a few seconds, I studied her expression trying to get an early read of her verdict. After a couple more chewing motions, she says “Mmm, this is good! What is it called?” We learn that a rambutan is indeed a fruit, a very sweet fruit. Once the soft spiky red exterior is cracked open and discarded, the interior is similar in texture to the inside of a peeled grape, with an oblong pit like a mango and a flavor somewhere between a strawberry and a grape. You can purchase small or large bags of them- similar to grapes – we were delighted and bought a bag of them to take back to the resort. http://facethewall.com/fruit-rambutan.html
After all the shopping and exploring, we were getting thirsty. Ahh, this is what I’d been waiting for… there isn’t anything more refreshing on a hot, humid day than ice cold coconut milk. We arrived at a little stand, and the gal behind the small counter whipped out her machete and whacked the top of the coconut off, then drilled a hole into the center of the top, stuck a straw in it and handed it to me with a smile. Yumm! This is perfect!!!
We arrived back at the resort shortly before Siesta Time and persuaded Sue & Ellen to try a highly recommended pizza place within walking distance. We were curious to taste a Tahitian version of pizza! We walked into the small outdoor restaurant and sat down at a table – the pizzas looked pretty similar to American pizzas actually. After studying the menu on the wall, we went up to the counter to place our order. We asked what kind of “meat” was on the meat and cheese pizza. The lady behind the counter looked at us with a bit of confusion, and simply said, “Its M-E-A-T” as if she thought talking more slowly would explain it further. We had to laugh – having already experienced similar responses when ordering fish on the Tahiti Nui flight over here from Los Angeles. I guess the word “meat” or the word “fish” is description enough for most people, so we took a chance and just ordered the local specialty. It was delicious! We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon and incredible conversations with Sue & Ellen – they are just the neatest gals!
The afternoon continued to be overcast which lent for a pleasant time by the pool. More gals were arriving on various flights – all just happy to be here – there were some lively festivities in the lounge and bar area as everyone started unwinding. It provided a lot of entertainment for us. And just think the actual Tahitian dinner and Fire dancers show wasn’t scheduled to begin until 9pm!
After showering and dressing for dinner, we met Mindy & Lynette and Sue & Ellen for dinner – they’d secured a perfect table next to the stage in the beautiful outdoor restaurant. French Polynesian food is heavenly – the freshest, sweetest pineapple, coconuts, melons, exotics fruits, fishes and cheeses – it is really most amazing. The freshest crab, lobster and shrimp you can imagine. All of the traditional island fare with a French culinary flair – baked goods and desserts that are almost too succulent to even eat. It was absolute nirvana.
Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the entertainment began. The traditional native dancers and rhythms were hypnotic and enticing. The tribal beats and spinning wands created circles of fire awaken knowing from deep within your soul –even with little history of the islands, the magic translates easily into something very spiritual yet tangible. It’s easy to understand why the island life is so captivating to us fast-paced Americans. It reminds us to go within ourselves and seek the answers… we relax enough to let the things that are truly important float to the surface of our beings. After delighting our senses beyond our wildest dreams, we retired for some sleep with happy thoughts wafting through our minds from our day’s adventure.
March 23, 2002 - DAY 3 - Papeete and arrival on The Paul Gauguin:
La Orana!! We awoke to a brilliant and sunny day, spent some time packing up our clothes and preparing to depart Le Meridien and arrive on the Radisson Seven Seas Paul Gauguin. We joined Sue & Ellen for breakfast and then took a last stroll around the resort with our video camera. It was a striking piece of paradise and we were sad to be leaving but excited to begin our next adventure.
The bus arrived to take us to the Papeete Port, as we caught our first glimpse of the Paul Gauguin; we knew it was going to be an extraordinary experience. Our bus pulled gently up to the red carpet landing and we were immediately greeted with big hugs by various Olivia staff and ship crew members welcoming us on board. A group of musicians and dancers, “Les Gauguines” were playing island folk music and the pareo clad dark haired Tahitian beauties approached us with fresh flower leis and pearly white grins.
With our first steps onto the gangway we entered another world, a world known only to celebrities. The beautifully adorned interior of the Gauguin equally matched the striking exterior… we were personally escorted to our cabin, taking in the visual scenery along the way. Our cabin attendant explained areas of interest along the mini-tour, then opened our cabin door and welcomed us on board, encouraged us to contact him if we needed anything at all, then politely excused himself. I think our jaws had tumbled off our faces from all the “oohs and ahhs’ as we breathed in the magnificence of our cabin. The crisp white walls and deep wood trim, the deep blue water from our huge window, the bottle of champagne, vase of purple and white orchids and fresh assortment of fruits – it was so surreal.
The Paul Gauguin is a relatively small luxury ship, accommodating just 300 passengers with 1 staff attendant to every 1.5 guest, you can imagine the attentiveness. Our bags had already arrived in our cabin and we starting settling in, exploring every nook and cranny along the way. Since we were fortunate to catch an early bus, we had plenty of time to explore the ship, the port area and a make a quick trip back to the Papeete Market for another delightful cold coconut milk treat. Yum!
We arrived back at the ship with plenty of time to enjoy a magnificent sunset before meeting Sue & Ellen and Mindy & Lynette for dinner at one of the many fine restaurants on board, L’Etoile. The meal was outstanding – the atmosphere elegant and the wait staff exceptional. After marveling and partaking in the fine assortment of desserts and coffees, we strolled to the top deck where a band was playing dance music and the evening scene complete with “Welcome Aboard” party was well underway. We enjoyed a beautiful send off of Papeete as the city lights grew distant and the moonlight struck the deep blue waters. We were sailing toward Raiatea.
March 24, 2002 - DAY 4 - Raiatea:
We awoke to beautiful sunshine streaming into our cabin ran over to our window to see what morning had brought for our viewing pleasure. The water was crystal clear and we could see coral formations under the surface. Small islets, or motu’s, would pass in and out of view and the ship continued its journey toward Raiatea. After ogling at the scenery awhile, we approached a much larger island –it was Raiatea!! We got ready for the morning and headed to La Veranda for breakfast just as the ship began to anchor. We quickly learned that all meals on the Gauguin would be nothing short of spectacular. You could choose from a large selection of stunning items on the grand buffet or order something you may be craving whether it was on the menu or not, the chef would gladly prepare it exactly as you requested. Definitely a celebrity-quality experience!
After a leisurely breakfast, we made our way up to Deck 8 by the pool around the outdoor stage for a ceremonial greeting from the people of Raiatea. They are warm, inviting and friendly people, we spent a couple of hours learning about their culture, attire made predominately of colorful floral wraps called pareos and demonstrations of customary dances significant for each generation. There were many children participating in the festivities – they were adorable and quite talented at dancing already. It was really cute to watch them in their little teeny pareos and coconut shell tops. Toward the finale, it was time for the kids to bring members of the audience up to learn how to do the traditional dances.
I was lucky enough to be selected by a young girl who was maybe 6 years old. She was definitely one of the more talented children and was a little impatient with my attempt to imitate the traditional hip movements and dance steps. I was having so much fun – she was really sweet and her little sister, maybe 3 years old joined us for a dance too. After a couple of songs, lots of laughing, all of us volunteers were excused and led back to our lounge chairs around the pool. We were then given a flower and shell lei as a token of appreciation for our participation – it was a very touching moment and I felt honored to receive such a sweet gift from the little ones. I graciously bowed down and they slipped the flowers around my neck.
The afternoon brought clouds and wind. With a threat of thunderstorms brewing, we climbed into the boat to go on our first snorkeling excursion around the island of Raiatea. The lagoon waters are crisp and clear – as I peered over the boats edge, it seemed like I could see for miles below the surface into the aqua hues. We stopped at our first destination, put on our flippers and happily jumped into the delightful warm water. It was fantastic… so much more incredible than any Discover Channel underwater special. There were schools of fish everywhere with brilliant colors and striped markings. Without moving even an inch, I could have spent the entire day looking at what was just below the surface.
The explorer in me tugged anxiously to see what else was nearby, I spotted Mary and joined her near a gigantic pink and purple colored coral chunk the size of a small boat. Many varieties of fish were busy in their daily life and seemed oblivious to our curious peering. We spent about an hour gliding through the water with our guide, exploring underwater areas as he identified various corals, anemones, fish and other life indigenous to the area. The clouds continued to rumble overhead and the lightning flashed around us – the sky began relinquishing soothing, warm drops of rain. Still enthralled with the magnificent spectacle under the surface, I was almost completely unaware of anything else until the sparkly drops caught my attention as they plunked brilliantly, glittering like diamonds into the blue waters. It was as if the droplets were dancing to some natural rhythm unknown to humankind. While making our way back to the boat, a gigantic sting ray glided past us with its massive wings stroking smoothly through the water. Wow - they are incredibly graceful and super fast!
We continued our journey via boat around the island of Raiatea chatting with our new friends Pat & Jane, and of course learning more about the landmarks of Raiatea from our guide. The lush green hills and tree covered terrains were strikingly beautiful in their own rite. Occasionally we’d see a small area with houses along the waters edge, but the island mostly seemed like open land without a lot of human sprawl. Raiatea’s population is just 12,000 inhabitants and has a twin island, Taha’a, which shares a lagoon and barrier reef. We learned that Raiatea means “expansive sky” and was the starting point for all human migration to the Hawaiian, New Zealand and Easter islands. Additionally, Polynesian myths prophesized that Raiatea was the birthplace of the world and Raiatea is the religious center of Polynesia.
We arrived at our next snorkeling destination in a shallow and beautiful coral inlet. Our guide warned us to swim very close to the surface of the water and avoid touching the stunning but razor sharp coral formations. After exploring the shallow coral area, we entered a secluded lagoon that was about 4-5 feet deep. This area was known to be a home of smaller black tipped reef sharks and sea turtles. We didn’t see any sharks, but our guide roused a sea turtle from its nap and held it up for us to examine. Kicking and seemingly upset by the intrusion, it happily darted back into the water through our circle of spectators swimming through Mary’s legs and up-ending her as it made its escape. We all had a good laugh about it all the way to the ship. What a great day.
The evening brought another fabulous meal on the Gauguin and a special surprise 60th birthday party for Colonel Grethe Cammermeyer (http://www.cammermeyer.com/) who happened to be enjoying herself on this cruise. (like I’ve been saying – it really is a movie star caliber ship!)
March 25, 2002 - DAY 5 - Tahaa:
...tune in soon for the rest of this adventure!
This page was last updated 12/07/07